How to Convert a 4x2x2 into an 8x2x2 PVC Enclosure

This guide walks you through converting a standard Cornel's World 4' x 2' x 2' PVC reptile enclosure into a fully secured and properly aligned 8' x 2' x 2' double-length enclosure. Each step has a rendering and matching instructions so you can follow along easily.

Parts list

Rendering of the conversion parts laid out with hardware

Here are all the parts for converting your existing 4' x 2' x 2' into an 8' x 2' x 2':

Top and bottom
2 open sidewalls
Sliding glass front
Back wall
2 glass doors
Finger pulls for adding to the doors
Screws for assembly
6 carriage bolts and acorn nuts
C channel

Step by step

Rendering of a sidewall being removed from the existing cage

1. Remove a sidewall

First, remove one of the existing sidewalls. Take out the screws through the sidewall on the side, as well as the screws from the top, back, and bottom panels. If you have sealed the interior joints, once the screws are removed you will need to push from the inside to loosen the caulking. Once the panel is off, scrape away the existing caulking so you can reapply new caulking with the new panel.

Rendering of the new open sidewall installed on the existing cage

2. Install the new open sidewall

With the existing sidewall removed, and the silicone removed if required, you can install the new open sidewall. Both are the same and align either way, so either will work. Align the side edge and the front first. I recommend starting with the first screw at the front of the top panel and working your way back, adjusting as needed to keep the panel aligned with the edges of the existing panels.

Rendering of the second half cage built with its open panel on the opposite side

3. Build the new half cage

This part should be easy if you built your existing cage. Do it the same way, but install the open sidewall on the opposite side to your existing half cage so that the two open sidewalls can join together.

Rendering of the two half cages pushed together

4. Push the two halves together

This step is easiest on a flat, level space, either a table or the floor. If you have trouble aligning them, you can stand one cage on its solid sidewall and put the other half on top with the open sidewall side down.

Rendering of carriage bolts pushed through the joiner holes

5. Push the carriage bolts through

The cages need to be properly aligned for the carriage bolts to pass through. If you are having trouble keeping them aligned, push one carriage bolt through one half cage with the other half pushed apart. With that bolt held in place, slide the other half onto the bolt and slide it together. You just need the carriage bolt 1/8" through the other side so you can thread the acorn nut and tighten the cages together.

All six first

Get all 6 bolts through before you start tightening the acorn nuts.

Rendering of acorn nuts added to the carriage bolts and tightened

6. Tighten the acorn nuts

When tightening the acorn nuts, it helps to hold the front edges of the open sidewalls aligned while you tighten the nuts at the front. Once those are done, tighten the acorn nuts at the back.

Rendering of the C channel added over the bottom joint between the two halves

7. Apply the C channel

Once the cage halves are together, there is a bottom joint between them. We supply a cover plate to seal that joint from moisture.

Going bioactive? Seal the joints

If you are doing bioactive, I would suggest caulking the bottom joint and up the vertical joints as well to prevent leaks. Dynaflex 230 is fine for basic sealing but not for standing water. Lexel can sit in standing water, but give it extra time to offgas before the animal goes in.